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Lesson Title: Amazing Lighting from Your On-Camera Flash

Lesson Description:

Getting flattering, professional quality lighting from an on camera flash is a lot easier than in the old days. Using high-tech gear and creative flash head swiveling, flash lighting can take on a look of time–honored light box setups or even natural window light–instantly and without an assistant.

Lesson:

Using a D-SLR camera and on camera flash (like the excellent Canon 580EX), explore wall bouncing (I call this technique “foofing” which is the sound I imagine when the flash blasts against the wall) while having the camera/flash system automate the white balance and exposure. Working in an average wedding reception like setting (pretty dark), set the camera in Manual mode and experiment with various ISO, aperture and shutter speed settings. Specify AWB so the camera will adjust for off-colored walls used for flash bouncing. The only light to be used for the lesson will be from the bounced (foofed!) flash, plus whatever ambient light in the dark room that can be recorded. As a starting point, try ISO 400, 1/25 second, and f:3.5 on a typical lens used for wedding reception work (I like the 24-70mm f:2.8), but prime lenses like a 50mm lens will also work fine). Slower shutter speeds will effectively lighten the background, though increase chances of unwanted motion blur. The darker the room, the slower the shutter can be set.

Though the camera is in Manual mode, the flash will be set for full automation (E-TTL for Canon users) to automatically compute the flash output. No flash exposure compensation is generally needed. Some flash units, like the 580 EX, allow the head to be swiveled in all directions making this technique far easier to accomplish. Amazingly, foofing off of walls that are non-white, and even at distances beyond 30 feet can be very workable and give excellent results. I generally suggest aiming the light slightly above the subject height, say at a 10 feet height on the wall. Avoid aiming the flash straight up (ceiling bounce) without adding a white bounce card to the flash, otherwise eye sockets will be dark. This lesson is meant to encourage use of the walls and working without any white card, so limit experimenting to wall bouncing. Use of wide aperture settings (f:1.8 to f:4), including wide open settings, are encouraged. It seems to me that many photographers, perhaps many who, like me, were raised on medium format gear, still work at aperture settings near f:8 for much of their wedding. In reality, with D-SLR equipment, far wider aperture openings will give sufficient depth of field and do a superior job of recording available light. Using smaller apertures (say f:5.6 or f:8) also (unfortunately) limits the effectiveness or usability of many hot shoe style flash units.

Consider aiming the flash head so that the lighting pattern on the subject face will emulate portrait lighting techniques. I find that short lighting is my favorite – illuminating the less seen side of the face is usually more flattering (thinning) than broad lighting.

Lesson Requirement:

Submit 8 images that demonstrate foofing as described herein. Show proficiency in manipulating the flash head in various aperture, shutter and ISO settings in settings that mimic a typical indoor, nighttime wedding reception.


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